Day 15 Rest day Burgos

Felt crap last night and so slept in this am. After a wander around and meager pilgrim rations for lunch I headed off in search of replacement shoes. 32deg heat taxi to a anaconda type megastore in the burbs identified that Spanish have small feet. My firm grip on this planet requires ~size 47 everything here stops ~45. So taxied back to the city waited for thier bloody siesta to finish and located two more stores (not collocated of course). I finally found one pair I'd Salamon xa pro 46.3/4 but in gortex so not sure if they'll be any good. I don't have much choice. I will have to carry both pairs of shoes incase these are worse than the broken inov-8s. Did I mention "we H-8 Inov-8".

Not quite the restful day I was hoping for but nice wandering the streets of such a pretty town.

Our Hotel is the one Martin Sheen stayed in whilst filming "The Way" so good enough for Marty.......

The city gates Burgos, one Stylish pilgrim

Meager pilgrim rations .... Again

Marty's endorsement in the loby

Day 14 Burgos 26kms

Apparently we are 1/3 of the way through with only ~500km to go yay.

Hard day today. Very sore feet (thank you, Inov-8 bastards) and very hot. You soon get a Camino tan even with multiple sun screen applications ie 3rd degree burns down your left hand side.

First part of the day is walking on very rocky ground reminiscent of a barren Greek island all the while beside barbed wire entanglements (see pic) This is protecting a military ground where we could hear small arms fire all morning. The only military presence I saw was three 4wds driven by unshaven scruffy looking uniformed youths that seemed to drive at speed in circles through puddles whilst honking their horns at the female pilgrims. Judging by there driving skills, appearance and discipline I'd say now would be a good time for the Basque to make a play.

We got lost for the first time today. The Camino on approach to Burgos gives you 2-3 options we wisely chose the 4th and ended up in the middle of a farmers field just walking towards a mobile tower that we hoped was attached to the next town.

The entry to Burgos is pretty tedious. Kms of airport or industry followed by Kms of high density living varying from Ghetto to 70s dull. As usual there is an old part of the city where we are staying and this is very pleasant.

Rest Day tomorrow. I'll try and buy new Salomon trail shoes. May be they will last for more than a couple of weeks.

"We H-8 Inov-8". Spread the word.

view from the trench into no mans land.

Day 13 San Juan de Ortega 25km or The gift that keeps on giving

Kathryn (aka Typhoid Mary) has given me the chest/throat cold she has been battling for the last week. However rather than a petit girly cold it has some how mutated into variant strain which I have aptly named "Ebola lite" ie all the symptoms of Ebola but without killing you. Any way back to the walk.

Part 1, fine weather little towns every couple of Kms with cafes that were open.

Part 2, 12 Kms of up hill baking (27deg) fire trail trough pine plantations. Absolutely no wind nor shade

Eventually arriving at San Juan de Ortega (sounds like line from Johny Depp as Don Juan) we checked into the only hostel In town at the only bar in town and headed for a shower and kip. Returning to the bar at 8 for dinner we were informed that there were no more seats for dinner and that there was no where else to get food in town.
So dinner was an apple and a bag of Gummy bears.

Why the flock do you provide beds take the money and only after that inform the client that you cannot feed the people you have sold beds too. In the words of basil Fawlty "Beats me how they ever organized an Armada"

What a way to advertise your Resaurant

Camino de dia - fire trail

Day 12 Belorado or "terra del viento" (23km)

The photo pretty well sums up today 23km beside a highway on asphalt or hardpack with a strong head wind, baking hot with the odd shower. Not a very enjoyable day. Enough said.



I've include my credencial with stamps so far for your viewing pleasure. This is a passport type concept where each town you stay you get a stamp to prove you went thought the town. Apparently in Santiago this gets scrutinised before one is awarded the camino de Santiago de Compostella. I preparing for being chastised about not having any church hostel stamps and mainly hotels, pubs and cafe ones.
Note I've only filled up half of one side so that should give you an idea of how far to go.

Another note of interest is that Belorado is the self proclaimed "digital hub" of the camino. This is evidenced by the lowest availability of WiFi not only on the Camino but the planet.

My Credecial filling up slowly

Camino de dia

In this region Storks nest on most bell towers

Day 11 Santo Domingo de la Calzada (21.5km)

Passed the 200 km mark some time today.

Cafe doble (long black) - 1.20euro

Zumo de naranja (fresh orange juice) - 1.50euro

Bocodillo jamon e tomate e queso ( ham cheese tomato sandwich) - 3.50 euro

200km of walking not one blister - Priceless

The color of the soil has turned from grey/brown to red over the last two days. Crops are still the same but irrigation is now widespread so very green. The snow covered mountains have made themselves visible also and I think(hope) this is as close as we get to them.

I spoke too soon about 1km from the days accommodation I ignored some dirt in the heel of my sock and have just discovered a tiny blister at the rear of my left heel. My fault should have stopped. Oh well.

St Domingo is reportedly the patron saint of civil engineers so feeling positive will soon discover a patron saint of genetic engineering (I fear not while the Catholic church has any power remaining though)

Checked into hotel Paredor de Santo Domingo - Bernado de . An old monastery now a hotel very flash and still less than a Australian trashy motel.

Finally found a proper Resaurant ie one that has something other than a perigrino menu. Stumbled upon absolutely sensational meal. I had cod stuffed peppers wraped in jamon and roast lamb but i belive the beef tournedo was even better. The wine selection is great with really good examples of the region. Deserts muscat etc all perfect. This was all freshly prepared ie it was refreshing not to hear the ping of a microwave from the kitchen, which seems to be common in the restaurants you see on the Camino.

Michelin recommended and all for about 55 euro per head.

Kit Rant

Also determined the cause of the blister last night was not a stone but my shoes disintegrating (see picture) after 10 days and 200km. Not happy Jan. Wrote to inov-8 and they referred me to wiggle, the company I bought them from. However they did say their policy is that I return the shoes to wiggle who then on turn send to inov-8 who then determine if it is a defect. Brilliant I'll walk on bloody stumps while inov-8 work out wether a specialist outdoor shoe should or should not disintegrate after 10 days of intended use. I will keep you informed as to the progress and if I don't get satisfaction it's YouTube and their recent entry into the Australian market I'll have to target. Wiggle are pretty good so have emailed them

Day 10 Najera 15.6km

Easy day, legs working okish. Has to don the Gortex a couple of times but still very pleasant. Just settling in for tapas and beer waiting for our dinner reservation at 9pm.

Camino de dia

Little pilgrim and the tell tail yellow arrow

Day 9 Navarette 22.5km

Viana to Navarette was pretty, hot and not too hard. The church at Navarette was as the book suggests the blue guest of the camino so far. More gold (oro) than you ever need, no wonder there are gold merchants on ever town the church needs it. Also found out where all the people go before 6pm .... mass, it was packed.

View from ruined churchViana

Day 8 Viana (19km) Something Went Ping

Past the 150km some time today.
Legs bad again this morning but after lunch at Torres del rio something went ping and my left calf freed up. So much so that for the first time
in ages actually caught up with Kathryn before Viana.

More vineyards olive groves, and white asparagus fields agin today everything is very green and very much like the pictures in the big green coffee table cooking book about the camino. (forgotten the name)

The Viana pub, Casa Armendariz, serves a mean "Carajillo De Ron Quemado" superb, rum, cognac and espresso, (Italians call it ponce)

A few of the pilgrims that have been in sync with all checked into a nice posh hotel tonight so we followed suit. Still only 35euro each

Camino today

Stylish pilgrim

Viana main street 4pm

Posh hotel

Ponce

Day 7 Los Arcos (21.5km)

Legs a bit better today but still painful and slowing my pace to a crawl. Have been cranking up the iPhone tunes and that seems to distract me.

Had brunch at Villamayor de Monjardin where they offered fry up, eggs chips chorizo. Very unusual and very tasty.

Really hot today, I mean baking. So sweat and shuffle was the order of the day.

Finally arrived at Los Arcos around 3 and checked into the hotel Monaco, very nice. Peregrino menu, beer, wine and rumbos to finish.

Wine fountain for pilgrims

I thought my pack was small (not a day tripper either)

No wonder the Spanish are climbers look at these lines

Camino today

Day 6 100k mark and onto Estella (22.7km)

Left Peute LR and a superb cafe hoping to grab breakfast in one of the two towns over the next 7k. Well beware the hungry pilgrim Maneru and Cirauqui have no coffee, no nothing, bar the later having a hole in the wall bakery with vending machine coffee. So pissed off were we that we missed the celebration of the first 100k mark in Maneru. Any way, rather grumpy without our coffee and breakfast, we trudged to Locra which had a couple of little Alburge cafes where I consumed the mandatory Bocodillo, beer and coffee.
The next 10k was an absolute nightmare. My left calf completely stuffed up and my right Achilles and calf no better. I had to do a sort of cliff young / POSE running kind of gait to maintain any sort of progress.
Finally made it to Estella and stayed in our first parish alburge run by the local church, it was very squishy and had rather puritan rules about time but it was friendly, welcoming and I was well over walking.
After a small kip and laundry duty we went into town to sit in the bustling town square to drink and watch the world go by until a restaraunt opened (8:30-9:00pm). Most restaurants have
"Perigrino menus" and these are pretty good at 11euro for a three course meal and half a bottle of wine. You do however feel a little like Sienfelds parents lining up for these.
As all soft tissue below my knee had frozen solid, walking around town was bloody slow and I'm sure amusing to the locals. I experienced how hard it is to cross the road in your eighties.

The Puente LaRiena

Lunch Uterga

Day 5 Pamplona to Puenta la Riena 23.5km

Coffee at our regular (3 days running) cafe then up the hill to Alto del Perdon. This pass sees us move into a more mediterranean climate and it is home for the iron silhouette sculptures of several pilgrims on donkeys. All camino books and sights have this view. After the climb the rest of the day is a welcome easy stroll through canola fields and some cute little towns. Had lunch at Uterga Alburge consisting of a vino Tinto and tuna roll. Very tempting to stay at this hostel and blow the arvo away in the beer garden but thought it best to press on. Arrived Puenta la Reina and got the last room in the first private hostel(Jakue), brilliant hostel. We are told that tomorrow, along with the usual perigrino water fountains, there will be one dispensing wine, how cool is that.

Ferro pilgrims

Beer garden

Shell

Day 4 Hielo is for ice - Larrasoana to Pamplona 17km

Taxi from Burlada back to Larrasoana where we left off last night. Public holiday again today so nothing open. Walked to Pamps (right past the hotel) and caught bus back to hotel.
Alas dear readers today was a bit of a down day of which i'm sure there will be several on the camino. I was tanking due to being tired and calves/Achilles acting up etc with the black dog not far behind. The way was hot/cold rainy/overcast and the camino travels close by major roads or literally through city streets. All in all just head down, stop talking and get it done type scenario.

The highlight was the walk through the old city of Pamplona which was beautiful and deserted. This section was somewhat tainted however by the need for a bano (toilet) when all were conveniently locked for the holiday. So I'm afraid no photos to share.

Achilles on ice

Day 3 Rocensvalles to place where the Achilles gives out (28km)

Beautiful days walk, tiny trails (albeit very muddy) quaint little villages and little to no rain. However it's a public holiday here and after 22km to Zubri we were greeted by absolutely no accommodation. Decided to walk to the next town(6km) where also too much dismay and frustration found there was no accommodation either. God knows how they deal with the summer crowds. Mmmm what to do? I know beer! And a taxi to Pamplona, our destination for tomorrow, to stay in a hotel there. Will catch taxi back in the morning to continue the Camino unbroken.

Video on the trail

Camino today

Day 2 Orisson - Rocensvalles 19km

6:30 start in the dark to get to Orisson (again) for the famous euro breakfast ie coffee in a bowl toast jam juice. Another night of snorers and people rustling bags at 5:00 am. I'm impervious with my 32db ear plugs.

Pissing with rain and low cloud so a pretty long slog with only a short stop for a bocodillo (sandwich French stick style).

About 4hrs later (12:00) arrived at Roncesvalles and checked in. Achilles hurting like a bastard today but it was 18km up hill so to be expected I guess. I'm showered and warm now sitting at the bar addressing a Heineken. No photos today too wet.

Everything is caminoefied. The are scallop emblems every where even the chair coverings. The way is clearly an economic boon.

This is the vino tinto de casa provided with this evenings perigrio menu.

CAMINO Day 1 SJPDP to Orisson 8km

Trying to conserve my healing Achilles chose to make the first day short as it is 27km to the next main town. So walked in low mist up hill to Orisson. Orisson is just an Alburge for those wishing to break the first day. Its very nice so spent the arvo eating, quaffing a bottle of vin rouge and polishing off a cryptic I'd brought from home. The Gite etape we stayed in was 1km back towards SJPDP so has to make several trips up and down to Orisson extending the days km reading by about 4km.

Pamplona

Bus from Barcelona to Pamplona great views but boy they love their wind farms 100s of Kms of them. Journey took (6hrs) so arrived about 9pm and checked into nice hotel (20 euro) slammed down a few bevies and a meal then sleep awaiting the trip to St Jean Pied De Port.

Next morning booked bus to Roncesvalles. They only have one bus a day it leaves at 3pm and only goes to Roncesvalles so the taxis can make a living from there to SJPDP. Spent the day looking around Pamps eating drinking and posting camping gear on to Santiago.

Bus now

Arrived at Roncesvalles low cloud freezing and no taxis. Finally one came and of to SJPDP with zero visibility and some very smelly Brazillians (the nationality not the hair style).

Arrived SJPDP after 9pm and after much stuffing around found the credencial office still open and got a scallop shell and pilgrim passport (credencial) and then we were paired with two Spanish guys to get the last beds in the town. We followed these guys for about 1km as the yelled out "pelligrino" at ever white house. Clearly being lead by fools we headed back into town and stayed at the Alburge we had meant to all along ie about 200m from the credencial office.

Barcelona

Love Barcelona. Arrived roughly on time and no hassle with entry, in fact just wandered through with less fuss than a domestic flight in OZ. Tapas, beer, wine and a beautifully friendly city. They'd be buggered from a tourism perspective if it wasn't for Gaudi, he has put them on the map. The Metro is great here but there are apparently loads of pick pockets so I was constantly at Defcon 5.

Heading off to Pamplona this arvo by autobus 6 hours

Double Down

Achilles procedure was a success so I'm off. However, the Dr also prescribed a few meds for the trip. Bugger this lot has almost doublet pack size. I'll need so
E serious down sizing to fit it in.

Ice is for cocktails

43 years ago packed and ready for my first solo adventure.

Wind the clock forward and things are no way near as traumatic but way more complicated. Well yes I am packed or could be at a moments notice, yes I'm exited, but ready, meh. 43 years have taken their toll and I've just had last minute PRP injections in right Achilles to fix an injury that would be less than useful whilst tempting to walking 1000s of kms. Consequentially I've had to delaying my departure by a week or so to cater for an accelerated recovery from this procedure. So for now its, no walking, ice twice  daily and I expect a shit load of DVDs.

Ice is for cocktails, isnt it?